Every year or two I try to add mulch to the gardens or edging, and this year I found a nice bag for only $2/1 cu. ft. This year it is “StaGreen – Flower & Vegetable Garden Soil”
While they use the word “soil” I wouldn’t use it in that capacity, but do find that it’s a pretty nice mulch. I found that I can put in 20 bags in the back of my car. So far, I’ve used 36 – 1 cu.ft. bags for around $72.00. Note – I could probably have use 40 bags total That amount covers the edging around the gardens plus the area around the lantana. Next year – 2025, I’ll try to cover the garden with the mulch.
I bought the mulch from Lowe’s and it ran out in one store so I had to go to another to get the last load.
If you’ve been to Costco lately you will see two options to buy for either filling a pot or a raised bed. The white bag seems lighter with less sticks in it than the green bag. Either bag costs around $10.00 each. Below is what the two mixes look like side by side.
Potting Mix ———-Raised Bed Mix
Note – while both of these are cheaper options, I still prefer to use ProMix which is what professional growers use. ProMix has mycorrhizae which helps plants grow. You will have to add fertilizer to most ProMix bags.
While most of us have been taught to have a perfectly clean golf course look when getting your flower beds ready for spring, another option is what they call Chop and Drop. The video below shows how they do this at Lurie Garden in Chicago. The only problem with this is that it looks quite messy.
In a city subdivision you might want to try a modified chop and drop which is what I do at the Whitecliff Garden. In the front which is visible to the public, I have a clean look which I cover with new mulch. But a couple of feet back I take out the large pieces of dead material, but leave the smaller leaves and twigs on the ground. This provides organic material to help feed the garden during the year.
Ideally your garden might look like this later in the year.
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It appears that the Monarch population in Mexico has dropped dramatically. Try and grow as much milkweed as possible to help the population when it comes through St. Louis in
Any winter day over 50 degrees, I like to get outside and work on cleaning up the garden. In the picture on the left, I used my Japanese Weeding Sickle and threw the weeds up under my Hydrangea. On the picture on the right I used my Dewalt trimmer on the weeds. Another test I did was to use the Japanese sickle and leave the weeds in place. The question is, which area will remain weed free over the next few months?
The above picture is how my Dewalt trimmer demolished the leftovers from the Allium.
I used my hedge trimmer on these allium. It took about an hour and is much easier on my back.
It would be nice if any seed we bought could simply be covered with soil and watered and watch it germinate in a few days.
Unfortunately, every seed has its own unique requirements and it gets even more complicated when you plant native seeds.
I found a great resource for native seeds from Prairie Nursery (click here.) It lists two pages of native plants and what specific requirements each seed has.
Note – other listings indicate that for cold treatment, a refrigerator is better than the freezer. Missouri Botanical Garden I’m going to experiment and see what difference there is.
Above – Feb. 8, 2024 – testing freezer versus frig. Seeds that need cold moist temperatures are in the 3rd bag.
The thing I learned is that most natives will get by with 30 days or more of Dry Cold temperatures – 32 degrees and colder. I’ve been trying to germinate some Little Bluestem without success and will now put it in the freezer probably until March.
The other thing I’ve learned is that if you leave seeds on a plant over the winter, they are ready to be planted in the spring. I did that with the echinacea seeds in the picture above and had good results.
Another lesson I’ve learned is that with cold moist stratification in a frig, you should start checking the seeds every week or so. I’ve found some seeds germinate quite easily in the frig and you will want to get them in the soil ASAP.
Also, make sure you mark your seeds and the date they are put into the frig.
If you’ve collected seed heads, now’s a good time to remove the seeds. The above is echinacea. Note how I leave about two inches of the stem when I cut them to hold on when I get the seeds. I then use needle nose pliers to twist out the white seeds. You can get 50 or more seeds from one pod. I usually save the seeds in paper bags until I’m ready to get the seeds.
Note – I’ve had good results planting these seeds outside around March 1st.
These plants are still blooming as of October 13th in St. Louis MO.
Aster – either New England or Aromatic.
Calamint – Montrose White. Note – I’m trying a slightly different variety next year. Calamintha nepeta nepeta.
Little Blue Stem – lots of color in the fall. Only gets about 4 to 5 foot tall.
Lantana – Star Landing Returns in St. Louis growing against a basement southern wall. It also grows in a location with lots of southern exposure
Salvia – Lady in Red Reseeds every year around July. A vigorous grower. Hummingbirds and Butterflies like this flower.
Globe Amaranth- a vigorous grower. Save the seeds for next year. I plant the seeds directly in the soil.
Black Swallowtail on Golden Alexander.
Rudbeckia Goldsturm – blooms most of the summer. I did cut it back once and it came back blooming.
Verbena bonariensis – blooms all summer. I save the seed and do cold stratification with the seed in the frig.It does have a tendency to get mildew.
Impatiens – they do well in a northern shady spot.
Milkweed – Asclepias curassavica. Note – Asclepias incarnata is now forming seed pods. Save the mature pods and use cold stratification during the winter.
Butterfly Gardening 